Published: October 01. 2009 2:00AM
By Renata Parker
CONTRIBUTING WRITER
Tucked in the heart of the winemaking hills of Tuscany is Siena, one of Europe's most intriguing medieval villages. It's very narrow and winding cobbled ancient streets and alleyways all lead to a breathtaking Piazza Del Campo, a grand, open-air meeting center and the life and soul of Siena, Italy.
According to local historians, the Campo was the hub for Siena residents since the 12th century. Bullfights, horse races, entertainment and executions have taken place on the Campo. For centuries neighbors have huddled for news announcements and connected with one another about the risotto and wine.
Today, this picturesque Campo is still the city's social gathering place. Surrounded by towering Gothic architecture, the energy of the Campo is distinctive and yet, very familiar. Old and young sit all along the floor of the vibrant Campo to people watch or have an espresso at one of the many outdoor cafes and restaurants. Elder residents watch through open windows from above flats. Children make a wish and drop coins in the ornate fountain, which still draws from a 500-year-old aqua duct. It is a small town at its best.
If you are in Siena during the summer, you will more than likely experience the Palio, a much celebrated horserace and festival. Dating back to 1283, the Palio event features ten jockeys, each representing one of Siena's neighborhoods or districts. This intense race lasts 90 seconds, but the parties last for days.
Colorful flags punctuate the alleys to identify the different districts. And the individual celebrations prior to and post race are more than spectacular. By accident, I wandered out of a restaurant after dinner with friends and was scooped into the current of rowdy costumed revelers cheering in victory. With the streets so narrow there's little hope for an escape, so I surrendered to the parade of costumes.
The parade ended at the beginning of another neighborhood, where another district parade connected and well, you get the idea. It lasts until about 1 a.m., and then the Mardi Gras-like party is over. It was complete old-fashioned fun with a lot of dancing, laughing and celebration among neighbors and passionate competitors.
Siena is a true walking city, and vehicles of any type are prohibited. Although driving is relatively easy throughout the area and a must for exploring the region, it's impossible to park close to downtown Siena. So if you are not staying in town, take the bus, which is very easy and inexpensive.
You can't go wrong while dining out in Italy, so feast with reckless abandon. Restaurant Osteria le Logge was a highlight for dinner. With floor to ceiling street front windows, dark wood and marble, the restaurant has all of the charm diners expect and wish for in this Tuscan village. Osteria le Logge has a reputation for its local dishes of veal, game and pasta, as well as for its selection of delectable Montalcino wines and homemade olive oil. I'm still savoring the bistecche di vitello (veal) and risotto presented with black truffles.
Also try the elegant Al Marsili which is in a building that dates back to the 11th century. It's low arched doorways frame the vaulted restaurant's sophisticated dining room, and the wine cellar is a must see. The chef prepares authentic Sienese cuisine and his most popular dish? A tasty faraona alla Medici (a guinea hen cooked with pine nuts, almonds, and prunes).
Navigate your way down the streets during the day for stylish shopping. You will find exquisite and-blown glassware, silk scarves, unique jewelry and fabulous shoes. My favorite was a small button shop that I discovered when I got lost following a little man with an umbrella for a perfect shot.
Times may have changed but Siena's Piazza Del Campo continues to connect residents to its culture. It's a perfect place to go to experience a time when things were simple and cities had a soul.
| Charming Siena shops are full of regional artwork, pottery and glass.RENATA PARKER |