Published: May 01. 2010 2:00AM

By Janet Poleski
CONTRIBUTING WRITER

My idea of a great dinner party is one where the cook can relax and spend time with all her guests. I've done such complicated ones in the past that I hardly got to visit with the guests until we were finally seated, and then I was up and down getting the next courses. Once I even did a “welcome cocktail” that had to be made to order as each guest arrived. What happens when you've got one cocktail made and two more guests show up? It's just a mess, and because of it, my idea of entertaining has changed quite a bit. These days it's fix ahead, fix ahead, fix ahead! That doesn't mean it can't be elegant, mind you. There is so much we can do ahead that there’s no reason you can't be available to greet your guests, present them with a fun cocktail and spend a little time visiting all before you do the last few minutes of cooking (and you should try to keep that under 10 minutes). Being relaxed is one sure way to make your guests feel relaxed, too.

For this elegant but easy menu, I made Jumbo Lump Crab Cakes with Classic Remoulade Sauce. The crab cakes really need a rest in the refrigerator for 30 minutes up to 8 hours, so it's the perfect make-ahead entrée. Of course, the remoulade tastes even better with a chance for the flavors to mingle, too.

I love to make these Smokey Sweet Potato “Fries” because, since you can do all the prep and then let them wait for you, there is no discoloring like with white potatoes. Plus, who doesn't love sweet potatoes? They are so good for you and so simple to make — just a quick toss in olive oil, a sprinkling of salt, pepper and smoked paprika, then a quick roast in a hot oven and you've got one flavorful side.

Finally, I think crab cakes have a special affinity for fruit. That's why I like this Ruby Red Grapefruit & Avocado Salad with them. If you really don't like grapefruit, you could replace it with mango or just add mango with the grapefruit. It's really good and, you guessed it, it’s make ahead as well. Mix up a pitcher of Firefly Sweet Tea Vodka with an equal amount of lemonade for a fun, welcoming cocktail that says “come in and relax … dinner will be ready in a snap”

Jumbo Lump Crab Cake with Classic Remoulade Sauce

Serves 4

• 1 pound jumbo lump crab meat

• 1 egg, lightly beaten

• ¼ cup mayonnaise (I like Duke's)

• 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

• ¼ cup green onion, chopped

• 2 cloves garlic, minced

• ¼ teaspoon kosher salt

• ¼ teaspoon white pepper

• ½ cup Panko bread crumbs

• Few shakes of Old Bay seasonings

• Zest of a lemon

• 2 -4 tablespoons oil (canola or vegetable)

1. Turn crab meat out on a plate and gently pick though with finger tips, trying not to break up the large chunks.

2. In a large bowl, combine egg, mayonnaise, mustard, green onion, garlic, salt and pepper. Gently fold in picked-over crab meat and bread crumbs and stir just to combine. Divide into 8 portions and gently form the cakes. Cover and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes to up to 8 hours.

3. When ready to cook, sprinkle crab cakes with Old Bay and lemon zest. In a large saute pan over medium-high heat, heat oil and cook cakes 2-3 minutes on the first side, then flip and cook an additional 2 minutes on the second side (can be kept in a warm, 200-degree oven until ready to serve). Drizzle with remoulade sauce with extra on the side.

For the Remoulade Sauce

• 1 cup mayonnaise (I like Duke's)

• 2 tablespoons capers, chopped

• 1 teaspoon Old Bay seasonings

• ½ teaspoon garlic, minced

• 1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice

• 1 green onion, sliced thinly, tops only

• 1 tablespoon horseradish

• 1 squirt of ketchup

• 1 squirt of Dijon mustard

• Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper

• A few shakes of hot sauce

1. Combine all ingredients, and set in fridge for the flavors to develop. Can be made ahead and kept for up to two weeks. Spoon alongside or put in squeeze bottle to drizzle over crab cakes.

Smokey Sweet Potato “Fries”

Serves 4

• 2 pounds sweet potatoes

• Good olive oil

• Kosher salt & freshly ground pepper

• Smoked paprika

1. Preheat oven to 425 degrees.

2. Wash and peel potatoes. Cut in half crosswise and then into ½ inch French fry shape. Cover a sheet pan with foil. Drizzle potato fries with olive oil and toss well to coat. Liberally season with salt, pepper and smoked paprika (can set aside until ready to cook). Roast for 15-20 minutes, gently turning and flipping potatoes once or twice throughout, until crisp on the outside and soft on the inside (can be held in a warm, 200-degree oven until ready to serve).

Ruby Red Grapefruit and Avocado Salad

Serves 4

• 2 ripe red grapefruit

• 2 avocados

• 1 bunch of watercress

• 1 shallot

• 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

• 1 lime, zested and juiced

• ¼ cup olive oil

• Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper

1. Cut both ends of grapefruit off, then slice off peel and white pith with paring knife around the outside, trying to leave as much fruit as possible. Over a bowl, cut in between the membranes to remove each section, reserving any juices. Set sections aside.

2. Cut avocado in half and remove pit by whacking it with heel of a chef's knife and giving it a little twist. Peel off the skin with your fingers and slice or dice the avocado meat, and immediately sprinkle with reserved grapefruit juice. Set aside.

3. In bottom of bowl, add to any remaining grapefruit juices the mustard, lime juice, salt and pepper. Whisk together and slowly whisk in oil to create an emulsion. Tear the bunch of watercress into bite-size pieces and layer on top of dressing. When ready to eat, toss watercress with dressing, add additional salt and pepper if needed and top with grapefruit sections and avocado slices or chunks.