Published: July 01. 2010 2:00AM

By Danny Baker
CONTRIBUTING WRITER

Remember the days when every Italian restaurant you entered had a squat, green bottle wrapped in straw containing nondescript Italian wine? That bottle is actually called a “fiasco,” and drinking the wine inside was often described the same way, the wine being thin, acidic and undifferentiated.

Believe it or not, those bottles were supposed to contain Chianti, one of Italy’s noblest wines. In the past two decades, all the promise of this wonderful Tuscan wine has been realized. When you see a fiasco today, it is normally just a decorative novelty.

So let’s step back a minute, forget the fiasco and talk about Chianti’s origins. The wine originates in Tuscany, in the area between Siena and Florence. The term Chianti refers to a region and a wine, not a grape. That region is divided into multiple subregions: Chianti Classico, Colli Senesi, Montalbano, Rufina and more. The grape from which Chianti is made is Sangiovese. Some of the best Chianti comes from the Classico region, and these are easy to identify by the “gallo nero” (black rooster) on the neck of the bottle.

Traditionally, Chianti could include other varietals. Canaiolo was among the red grapes that could be blended with Sangiovese. Surprisingly, white grapes could be added as well, and at one time small amounts of Malvasia and Trebbiano were not uncommon. Today, almost all fine Chiantis are primarily, if not 100 percent, Sangiovese and marketed in Bordeaux-shaped bottles.

One distinction you will encounter even today while shopping for Chianti is the designation “Riserva.” This means that the wine has been aged for a minimum of 38 months, rather than the four to seven months typical for Chianti not labeled as Riserva. Obviously, Riservas are even finer wines and priced accordingly.

The flavor and aroma profile of Chianti is that of ripe red fruit: sour cherry, red plum, red flowers, including rose petals, along with notes of baked earth and mushroom. Almost all Chianti in days past tended to be a slightly orange-red, with a color intensity or concentration somewhat like Pinot Noir. More recently, however, some robust, deeply extracted Chiantis have come to market, reflecting today’s riper taste preferences.

Two reliable producers of Chianti are Ruffino and Rocca delle Macie. Ruffino has made substantial investments in Tuscany, including a palatial villa near Montalcino where wine enthusiasts are able to dine, reserve rooms for a holiday and enjoy the wine. But you don’t have to travel to Italy to experience the joys of Chianti. Pick up one at your local retailer or peruse your favorite restaurant’s wine list.

Salute!